The hexapus is a gizmo I've made up that allows me to switch which of my two loopers is upstream from the other (in series). It allows me to bounce loops back and forth between them. It can also be useful for those using effects, as it allows you to put the effect unit before or after the looper. Or for those using two effect units, you can switch which one gets the signal first.
Rather than marketing it and becoming rich (as several people have suggested), I'd rather people learn how to do it themselves (12 hexapuses have been made so far... that I know of). So below is a diagram for the wiring.
The switch I used is a 4 pole 2 way toggle switch:
http://www.radioparts.com.au/ProdView.aspx?popup=1&Category=SXLL8010&Product=41373501&ProdDesc=ST3501+4PDT+3AMP+TOGGLE+SWITCH+SOLDER (there're lots of similar ones on eBay, but note that an "On On" is probably better than an "On Off On"). You only need 3 of the poles (note the unused pole at the bottom of the diagram). I'm making a footswitch button one for Adam Page with this: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SP0766&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=978#1 ... the only disadvantage being that you have to remember which way it's switched... shouldn't be too tricky!
I suggest you get 3 mono patch leads and cut them in half. Label each of the six jacks clearly, as it can get horribly confusing! On each one, open up a good few centimetres of the end of the cut cable, separating out the active wire from the earth (copper windings). I use a pocket knife for this... carefully! This can be a tedious process, but try to unmesh the earth neatly and twist it into one wire. Then expose a few millimetres of the active wire, ready for soldering. Twist all the earths together and solder them to be sure. You'll also need 3 little bits of wire (coated) to join across the switch (shown on the diagram in grey). Any coated wire will do. Before soldering, I reckon you should study the diagram and get your head around the flow of the signal. A toggle switch has a rocker that slides from side to side, joining the middle pins to the left or the right. It may also have a middle position that either joins or disconnects them all (which should be avoided, if possible). Once you think you've sussed it, solder the appropriate active ends to the switch pins. Remember, coat the parts you're soldering with nice fresh solder before you join them and try not to leave the soldering iron in contact for too long (to avoid melting any plastic parts). Good luck!
I originally had my input and output leads as sockets, but they were dodgy, and after much searching found it was better to use a female to female adaptor when I need a longer lead on any one of the ends. I'm displaying one in my right hand in the photo: They're quite cheap, easy to find, and a much more reliable socket than any others I could find... go figure!
Encasing the switch in a purple bubble blower bottle, adorned with googly eyes, isn't absolutely necessary, but it does protect the connections, makes it easier to switch and certainly adds to the vibe.
Have fun and do let me know if you make one, so I can add to the tally. Bewdy, love, Mal
Note: The blue, green and white wires have a choice of 2 pins they can connect to, due to the grey linking wires.
And here it is as a schematic (thanks to Gerand Hook):
And here's the Adam Page special:
